porsche carerra gt - Page 7 - Simply Maya User Community

# 91 13-10-2005 , 11:05 PM

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Thanks for the comments. I'd love to write a tutorial, but unfortunately the time I spend working my job prevents me from spending any real time working with Maya. You know how it is, gotta pay the bills. :angery: If there are any specific questions that I could help with in this forum, let me know and maybe I can come up with a quick mini-tutorial and post some screen captures. For instance, how to get nice crisp edges on panels.

I've found for me the most important thing to making a model look more professional is to really concentrate on one detail at a time, and only move on when you are relatively close to the final look you are trying to achieve with that specific part of the whole model. Lots of people use the "start with a block and refine from there" process, but I like to break things into smaller tasks that are worked on until completion. Doing it this way keeps me more motivated to finish the project. The problem I've had in the past with the "refine the block" process is that I lose sight of the end goal, get frustrated, and eventually throw in the towel. If you work on one little piece, maybe a headlight, seat, side panel etc. you get a little sense of accomplishment every step of the modeling process.

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# 92 13-10-2005 , 11:33 PM

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Originally posted by dilberts
Thanks for the comments. I'd love to write a tutorial, but unfortunately the time I spend working my job prevents me from spending any real time working with Maya. You know how it is, gotta pay the bills. :angery: If there are any specific questions that I could help with in this forum, let me know and maybe I can come up with a quick mini-tutorial and post some screen captures. For instance, how to get nice crisp edges on panels.

Originally Posted by

So whats your real job? Writing tutorials for 3Dsmax?

heh, kidding.. I know what you mean about getting into something and then give up because it's taking me so long with so little obvious return.

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# 93 19-10-2005 , 08:19 PM

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Looks awesome man!! Nice Work!!

How's you go about texturing the rear lights so they look so good??

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# 94 03-12-2005 , 12:47 PM

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so when u finishing it i mean final renders
in the complete forum
id really want to see the engine top that needs to be shown
my fav car that is user added image

https://www.imageocean.net/
Free Photo Hosting!

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# 95 04-12-2005 , 11:19 PM

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haih

shees .. maybe u can post the pics for the clay renderer ...hehehhe..:bow:

aaa

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# 96 07-12-2005 , 11:05 PM

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Regarding poly work

Hi! I am SO inspired by your work, man.

When I look at cars I immediately think NURBS due to
those big, gracefull curves.

HOW do you keep such control over such large areas using polys?

I'd really, really like to have your input. (really! lol)

Anyway, keep it up...May the force be with you and all that...

Indogo 2000

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# 97 09-12-2005 , 02:17 AM

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Ide like to thank you for your posting of your wire to your rims. Ive been trying to make rims for a while and seeing the way you tackled it really helped me out.. And i finally seem to understand a decent way of making them just from your wire.

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# 98 09-12-2005 , 03:58 AM

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Thanks for all the comments. I'm working on the Yamaha bike right now, so I won't be able to render any more scenes with this model for a couple of weeks, but when the bike's finished I'd like to render a side-by-side of the two.

Indogo 2000, to manage any project like this you've got to use the layer manager extensively, or you'll drive yourself crazy trying to select objects. Every time I finish a decent portion I'll make a new layer, that way you can right click on the layer that contains your object and choose for instance "select objects assigned to layer" if you want to work on that object. I'll have one layer for a seat, one for a door, one for the hood, one for the windshield etc. and work from there. You always want to stay organized either with the hypergraph (which I use) or the outliner. Delete unused nodes as you work, that way your scene will stay as compact and efficient as possible.

Twisteddragon, I'm glad it helped. I love cylindrical objects because they are so easy to make with good use of the duplicate tool. Here's a set of rims I made a while back (in NURBS) That only took about an hour to make. Symmetry is your friend in these types of objects.

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# 99 09-12-2005 , 03:59 AM

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After I get the hang of Modleing Characters I`m going into trying a car .I have the same problem i have tons of little projects i gotta finish just one...good luck it looks great .

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# 100 09-12-2005 , 11:08 AM

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Hey dilberts do you model characters too?

ICQ:215-024-460

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# 101 04-04-2006 , 09:04 AM

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dilbert ...love this worked ...just had to go threw it all again and be inspired ...wondering the rims ..do you have a tutorial on it ?

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# 102 08-04-2006 , 12:26 AM

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Hei Dilbert, how do you get the glass look for the headlights

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# 103 08-04-2006 , 01:05 AM

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mmoore5553, the closest tutorial to the way I modeled the BBS rims above can be found at www.3dtotal.com in the Maya tutorials section. There's also a couple of other nice tutorials at the same site for modeling a BMW Z. The poly rims for the Porsche were done by breaking it down to the smallest element, and then duplicating with rotation, and then merging the poly vertices. I made half a spoke, mirror copied it, then duplicated that one spoke four times with the correct number of degrees rotation. I then attached each spoke to the outer rim part which I modeled from a cylinder. It's actually a pretty quick process once you get the hang of it. I use symmetry whenever possible to cut down on modeling time.

ericmattison, the glass shader is pretty simple. Make a blinn with color being black, diffuse turned down to zero, and a really tight bright specular highlight. Turn the transparency to whatever you want (clear or tinted glass). Next, create a sampler info node and a ramp node. Connect the sampler info node into the ramp using the connection editor (connect the facing ratio of the sampler info node to the vCoord of the ramp), and then connect the ramp to the blinn (connect the out alpha from the ramp to the reflectivity of the blinn). Finally adjust the ramp's colors to shades of grey for the look you want. Basically, glass is more reflective when you look at it from a glancing angle, and almost non-reflective when you look straight at it. Use your own car as a reference for the correct look, or maybe a shop window or something. It's hard to explain every detail, I'm thinking one day I might try writing a book or video tutorial on all the things I've learned. There's just so many little tricks that I don't think are addressed in any book out there yet.

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# 104 08-04-2006 , 01:28 AM

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It would be sweet to see you do a video tutorial with a car that has alot of shapes and curves. That would be really sweet. Also thanks for the glass, I think I should be able to do it. Your clay worked perfect

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